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The Emerald Green Damask was my second gown, but was worn for my third year at Kentwell. I was studying for my A Levels in the run up to my second Kentwell and could not afford the time to make a gown that year. 

 

The Damask Gown was based on one of my all time favourite gowns - that of Princess Elizabeth (later Elizabeth I) c.1547. Since then I have made two more gowns in this style.

 

Reason for making the Gown

 

        My role was a noblewoman visiting Kentwell from Cheshire. My character was names Lady Elizabeth Warburton  of Arley Hall, Cheshire. A fellow Kentwell participant - Jeremy Burrows, portrayed the role of Lady Elizabeth's husband, Sir Piers Warburton, I also made his costume, but at present don't have any images of it.

 

        My storyline was that Lady Elizabeth was an heiress and was staying at Kentwell on her way to London. Sir Piers had come from London to meet her. Lady Elizabeth's father had ensure that her inheritance was held in a trust so that her husband, Sir Piers, could not obtain access to the funds.

       In the 16th century, women did not officially own property - it was owned by their father or a male guardian and subsequently their husband. Many fathers used the trust system to get around this problem. It worked very well as men (trusted friends, lawyers etc of the father) administered the trust and gave advice to the lady in whose name it was held. This background gave a tinge of "intrigue" to the partnership between Lady Elizabeth and Sir Piers. He was pressuring her to give him money and she was not going to do so!

 

Research and Design

 

        The 1540s are my favourite period for costume. The silhouette is sleeker than that of the 1590s. The bodice has an arched neckline which is also wide, exposing the upper part of the chest. The sleeves are tight to the shoulders and upper arms and then flare out to large cuffs which turn back showing a decorative undersleeve. 

 

        The waist is a delicate "V" shape and the skirt opens out at the point of the "V" to show an underskirt or forepart to match the undersleeves. The head-dress is (by now) a Halo or Horse-shoe shaped one - commonly called a "French Hood".

 

Princess Elizabeth (Red Damask Gown) c.1547. Royal Collection

Princess Elizabeth c. 1547. Royal Collection.

 

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Many thanks for the Images to:-