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        In 1996, I visited the department store John Lewis' in Oxford Street, London. I can't actually remember what I was going in there for but my friend, John Topman, (who has taken many of the photos on this site) saw this velvet and thought I'd love it. He has perfect taste - I did love it and bought what was left. There was just under 6 metres but I was only charged approximately £50! Not bad, but it was the end of the roll so I was going to have to be very, very economical with the stuff!

       The velvet stayed packed away for a few months - I was in the process of making my 1569 gown at the time. Then, in the autumn of 1996, the Kentwell Year was announced for 1997 -  It was the Spanish Armada year - 1588! 

       That sent me scuttling to my portrait and costume books where I found the perfect gown to copy for this fabric! I decided not to be extravagant with the decoration - I knew I wouldn't have the time nor money for it as I was retaking my first year at University. However, the velvet itself really didn't need any further decoration!

       The portrait that inspired me was that of Lettice Knollys, Countess of Leicester. c. 1585. My fabric was a cut or figured velvet and therefore did not need the gold decoration that My Lady Leicester has on her rather sumptuous gown. The fashion in the 1580s was for a very masculine style doublet with very wide shoulders, but a narrow pointed waist. Large "sausage" shaped sleeves and deep hanging sleeves are balanced by the wide skirt. A huge dinner plate ruff is supported by the stiff collar of the doublet.

Lettice Knollys, Countess of Leicester. c.1585

       This style of dress was clearly very fashionable at court. There are many portraits of Court Ladies wearing this style - and a lot are wearing black. Even the Queen favours this fashion in dress.

A Lady. c.1576

Queen Elizabeth, "The Sieve Portrait". c.1570s

Federico Zuccaro

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Many thanks for the Images to:-