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        January 1997 I started to make the gown. I had the velvet - which was and still is gorgeous! Though the velvet is gorgeous, I doubt it is silk or even cotton. I suspect it is a viscose or possibly a rayon, but I do not hang my head in shame at using it. The reason is that I feel it is a very good alternative to a true figured silk velvet - these are so expensive it is painful to think about it! Also, the Head of Costume at Kentwell had a fitted gown in the dark blue version of this velvet. If she could use it - then so could I!

       Looking at My Lady Leicester's gown and ignoring the gorgeous gold and silver embroidery, the trimming is actually a white strip between the tabs.

• On the edge of the shoulder, before the tabs start, there is a row of sequins or spangles. Then there is a white snipped edge.

• This edge is echoed in the:-

  • Double line of Shoulder Tabs;

  • The Skirt Tabs

  • The Front Closing edge of the bodice

  • The Open Edge of the Skirt.

• I thought that using this edging on my gown would relieve the jet black of my gown and provide definition at various points.

        The way I made the decoration was to use the ivory (polyester - ouch) satin and cut into strips about 1.5 inches wide. This was then backed with lightweight iron on vilene and then folded in half lengthways and stitched between the velvet and the bodice lining. I decided not to snip the edging though as in the portrait - I didn't want to risk seeing the vilene!

        The tabs for the shoulder and waist I made in a silk mix velvet which I managed to find somewhere. There - I do try, don't I? I was very nervous that I would not have enough of the figured velvet for the skirt and doublet bodice so thought that the fiddly tabs could be made from plain - after all, any pattern from the figured velvet would have disappeared! 

        The top line of tabs are trapezium shaped - and these were lined in the blacl satin, with an edging of the ivory. This was copied for the skirt tabs. The second line of shoulder tabs were simply a strip of velvet approximately 1.5 inches wide (plus turnings) interlined and lined with the ivory satin and edged with the same. They were then cut into 4 inch lengths and folded over to make a two inch long "looped" tab. These were stitched under the trapezium ones.

        To ensure the best use of the material, I decided to gore the front two panels of the skirt and then use 2 yards for the back. The back would be cartridged pleated, but I designed the front so that it would be absolutely flat and only have a small pleat just before the cartridge pleating started. I had enough velvet to make a pair of hanging sleeves, but I never got them finished.

        I don't have a dummy - so all fitting had to be done on me! This isn't an easy option if you are the maker and the wearer (or is that the dummy???) However, it seemed to fit very well. I made the bodice in such a way to act as its own corset so I would not need one underneath. The front fastening had a hidden lacing strip (made from the black satin) and then hooks and eyes closed over it.

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Many thanks for the Images to:-