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Making the Corset

 

Fabric:

 

        Ninya provided me with calico and cane and steel boning. As I wanted a new silk corset, I provided my own silk top fabric (dupion) in a lovely deep red and a red linen for the lining. The corset was to have the edges bound in its own silk.

 

Other - Thread:

 

        I was certainly NOT going to hand stitch all the boning channels - I don't have that much time nor the stamina to do so any more! However, I also thought that using standard sewing thread would not look "right". I wanted to have an effect of "linen" thread and found a thicker thread in exactly the right colour suitable for machine use! Initially, I was only able to buy 3 spools and couldn't find any more for about a fortnight and I used all 3 spools machining the channels of 3/4 of ONE back piece!

 

        My mum came to visit me one day and we popped into Remnants in Colchester - and there was the exact spool colour! I bought ALL the spools they had (11 of them!) to ensure I had enough left over! I don't care if I have too much as I can use it on the farthingale I am making!!!!!

 

Other - Eyelets:

 

        I have made a slight change to the fastening of this corset. I like having a back fastening (am used to it from my old corset) but it can be a pain to get into when there is no help around! I know some of you CAN get into a back laced corset but I am not supple enough to do it and will end up getting cramp in my back! So, I retained the front lacing as per the usual pattern and also opened up the centre back to take back lacing with a 2 inch gap for fluctuations in size!

 

        The back lacing holes have been strengthened with the usual grommets and then overstitched with the thick "linen" like thread. Looks really nice! However, I didn't want the same effect at the front! I had a couple of ideas/issues on the eyelets at the front:

   

1.

I like having eyelets strengthened with something like metal!
   

2.

It IS authentic to have eyelets strengthened with metal rings!
   

3.

The eyelets on the original are delicate looking (e.g. not strengthened with huge hulking bits of
      metal like grommets)
   

4.

The original are still STRONG!

 

        I therefore decided to be more authentic and had a think about what could be used as a metal ring. The answer?

  Jewellery JUMP RINGS!!!!!!

 

        They are really good - even though the ones I am using are split. They are the same size as the grommets but not the same thickness so still make the worked eyelet look delicate! I whip stitch them into place over the initial hole I create with an awl. Once they are secure, I can then use a ballpointed awl to make the hole the size of the ring and then button hole stitch over it with red silk thread (doubled). I make sure the "knot" of the buttonhole stitch is around the outside of the ring and it really does look rather lovely - even if I say so myself!

 

Work so far:

 

Easter 2005!

 

         Its starting to look like a corset! What do you think?

 

 

 

Top Fabric Showing.

Lining Fabric Showing.

 

 

 

Inside - Seam and boning channel detail.

Jump Rings whip stitched into place.

 

This the turnings of the seam are hand stitched, but the seam itself was machined.

These still need overstitching with buttonhole stitch - I have started this on the

   

other half of the corset.

 

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Many thanks for the Images to:-